History of Sachkhand Sri Harmandir Sahib
Sachkhand Sri Harmandir Sahib, also known as Sri Darbar Sahib or Golden Temple, (on account of its scenic beauty and golden coating for English speaking world), is named after Hari(God) the temple of God. The Sikhs all over the world, daily wish to pay visit to Sri Amritsar and to pay obeisance at Sri Harmandir Sahib in their Ardas.
Guru Arjan Sahib, the Fifth Nanak, conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for the Sikhs and he himself designed the architecture of Sri Harmandir Sahib. Earlier the planning to excavate the holy tank (Amritsar or Amrit Sarovar) was chalked out by Guru Amardas Sahib, the Third Nanak, but it was executed by Guru Ramdas Sahib under the supervision of Baba Budha ji. The land for the site was acquired by the earlier Guru Sahibs on payment or free of cost from the Zamindars (landlords) of native villages. The plan to establish a town settlement was also made. Therefore, the construction work on the Sarovar(the tank) and the town started simultaneously in 1570. The work on both projects completed in 1577 A.D.
Guru Arjan Sahib got its foundation laid by a muslim saint Hazrat Mian Mir ji of Lahore on 1st of Magh, 1645 Bikrmi Samvat(December,1588). The construction work was directly supervised by Guru Arjan Sahib himself and he was assisted by the prominent Sikh personalities like Baba Budha ji, Bhai Gurdas ji, Bhai Sahlo ji and many other devoted Sikhs.
Unlike erecting the structure on the higher level(a tradition in Hindu Temple architecture), Guru Arjan Sahib got it built on the lower level and unlike Hindu Temples having only one gate for the entrance and exit, Guru Sahib got it open from four sides. Thus he created a symbol of new faith, Sikhism. Guru Sahib made it accessible to every person without any distinction of Caste, creed, sex and religion.
The building work completed in 1601 A.D. on Bhadoon Sudi 1st, 1661 Bikrmi Samvat (August/September,1604). Guru Arjan Sahib installed newly created Guru Granth Sahib, in Sri Harmandir Sahib and appointed Baba Budha ji as its first Granthi i.e. the reader of Guru Granth Sahib. After this event it attained the status of ‗Ath Sath Tirath‘. Now the Sikh Nation had their own Tirath, a pilgrimage center Sri Harmandir Sahib is built on a 67ft. square platform in the centre of the Sarovar(tank). The temple itself is 40.5ft. square. It has a door each on the East, West, North and South. The Darshani Deori (an arch) stands at the shore end of the causeway. The door frame of the arch is about 10ft in height and 8ft 6inches in breath. The door panes are decorated with artistic style. It opens on to the causeway or bridge that leads to the main building of Sri Harmandir Sahib. It is 202 feet in length and 21 feet in width.
The bridge is connected with the 13 feet wide ‘Pardakshna’ (circumambulatory path). It runs round the main shrine and it leads to the ‘Har ki Paure’ (steps of God). On the first floor of ‘Har ki Paure’, there is continuous reading of Guru Granth Sahib.
The main structure of Sri Harmandir Sahib, functionally as well as technically is a three-storied one. The front, which faces the bridge, is decorated with repeated cusped arches and the roof of the first floor is at the height of the 26 feet and 9 inches.
At the top of the first floor 4 feet high parapet rises on all the sides which has also four ‘Mamtees’ on the four corners and exactly on the top of the central hall of the main sanctuary rises the third story. It is a small square room and have three gates. A regular recitation of Guru Granth Sahib is also held there.
On the top of this room stands the low fluted ‘Gumbaz’(dome) having lotus petal motif in relief at the base inverted lotus at the top which supports the ‘Kalash’ having a beautiful ‘Chhatri’ at the end.
Its architecture represents a unique harmony between the Muslims and the Hindus way of construction work and this is considered the best architectural specimens of the world. It is often quoted that this architecture has created an independent Sikh school of architecture in the history of art in India.
The Sri Harmandir Sahib was invaded and destroyed many a times by the Afghan and other invaders. Each and every time the Sikhs had to sacrifice their lives in order to liberate it and restore its sanctity. After the martyrdom of Bhai Mani Singh ji in 1737, Massa Ranghar, the Kotwal of Amritsar took charge of Sri Harmandir Sahib in 1740 and converted it into a civil court and began to hold notch parties. This act created great resentment among the Sikhs. Two warriors, Sukha Singh and Mahtab Singh avenged the insult by a dare devil act. They entered the temple complex in guise of peasants, severed the head of Massa Ranghar with a single blow of kirpan and fled away with decapitated head on one of the their spears. After this incident the security around the Sri Harmandir Sahib was further tightened and the temple was locked.
Now, it was the turn of Lakhpat Rai, a Hindu Diwan of Lahore Darbar as he vowed to finish the entire Sikh Nation. In order to avenge the death of his brother Jaspat Rai, he befouled the Sarovar and desecrated Sri Harmandir Sahib in 1746. He even banned the name ‘Guru’. The Mughal forces marched against the Sikhs under the command of Diwan Lakhpat Rai and Yahiya Khan. A fierce battle was fought (the first Ghalughara in june 1746) in which nearly seven thousand Sikhs were martyred. Three thousands of them were put to death publicly at Lahore, (the site is now called Shaheedganj).
After this hollowcast, the Sikhs under the efficient leadership of Sardar Jassa Singh Ahluwalia retaliated back and recaptured both the city and Sri Harmandir Sahib killing Salabat Khan in March, 1748. They celebrated Vaiskhi with great enthusiasm by clearing the holy Sarovar and restoring the daily Maryada at Sri Harmandir Sahib. They also held ‘Sarbat Khalsa’. The Dewali festival of 1748 was also celebrated enthusiastically.
In 1757, Ahmad Shah Abdali invaded India for the second time and attacked Amritsar. He demolished Sri Harmandir Sahib and filled the Sarovar (tank) with garbage. On hearing of the desecration, Baba deep Singh ji Saheed, the head of ‘Misl Shaheedan’, started at once to avenge the insult. A bloody encounter took place at the village Gohalwar near Amritsar. Baba Deep Singh was mortally wounded. He gripped and supported his severed head with his left hand and with the right, he went on mowing down the enemies. Thus fighting, this unique warrior reached the holy precincts and laid down his life for the cause of maintaining sanctity of Sri Harmandir Sahib.
On 10th April, 1762, Ahmed Shah Abdali again invaded Amritsar and Sri Harmandir Sahib, after the horrible carnage of the Sikhs at Kup Harira. On this occasion thousands of armed and unarmed Sikhs had gathered at the temple for a holy bath. Countless Sikhs laid down their lives in defense of their beloved shrine. Sri Harmandir Sahib was again blown up with gun powder and the holy tank was also desecrated. It is said that while the building of the shrine was being blown up, a flying brick bat struck the Shah on the nose. This wound proved fatal for him.
In December, 1764, Sri Harmandir Sahib was again attacked by Ahmed Shah Abdali with the sole object of destroying the entire Sikh Nation. But before his arrival the Sikhs abandoned the city and to his surprise he found only thirty Sikhs in the vicinity of Sri Harmandir Sahib, who under the command of Baba Gurbax Singh ji gave him stiff resistance and all were martyred. Abdali, again pulled down the newly constructed structure of the Shrine and leveled the holy tank.
Before the final departure from India in 1767, Ahmed Shah Abdali again attacked Amritsar but he dared not enter Sri Harmandir Sahib, and it remained under the control of the Sikhs ever afterwards. (In June, 1984 it was attacked by the Indian Army, under operation Blue Star in which several hundred innocent Sikh pilgrims were killed).
After the Martydom of Bhai Mani Singh ji Sri Harmandir Sahib was collectively managed by the Sikh misls and many Bungas (Mansions) were constructed. Whenever the Sikh leaders visit Amritsar, they did not interfere in the affairs of the temple. All the general gatherings were held on Akal Takhat Sahib only in the presence of Guru Granth Sahib. During the rule of Maharaja Ranjit Singh the administration of Sri Harmandir Sahib went under the control of the State. Maharaja took keen interest in the development and beautification of Sri Harmandir Sahib.
During the British period, Sri Harmandir Sahib passed under the control of one man the ‘Sarbrah’ (Manager), a nominee of Deputy Commissioner of Amritsar. The Deputy commissioner of Amritsar also made a committee of so-called sikh Sardars and Raises. The Pujaries, Mahants, Ragis and other functionaries began to receive their customary share of offerings at the Temple. On the other hand immoral acts were practiced by them within the precincts of the temple with the connivance of Sarbrah. Great resentment prevailed among the Sikhs and outcome of this was Sikh Gurdwara Reform Movement. Now again the Sikhs had to sacrifice their lives for the cause of Sri Harmandir Sahib and other Shrines. The Shiromani Akali Dal became the spear head of the struggle for the reform of the places of worship.
The curtain was finally rung down upon the Gurdwara Reform Movement, when the Sikh Gurdwara Act, 1925, vested the control and management of Sri Harmandir Sahib in the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, a representative body of the Sikhs elected by adult franchise.
Around Harmandir Sahib
A visit to the Harmandir Sahib is incomplete without a visit to the following among others:
1. AKAL TAKHAT
It rightly faces the Harmandir Sahib. Built by the Sixth Master Guru Hargobind (1606-44) in 1609, has been the nerve centre or the Sikhism ever since. All commandments affecting the community as a whole were and are issued from here. The Akal Takhat was used for holding court and Sikh congregations in the days of its builder.
The Akal Takhat was pulled down several times by the Muslim raiders. The ground floor of the present building was constructed in 1 874. Three storeys were subsequently added by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. A number of weapons used by Guru Hargobind, Guru Gobind Singh and other Sikh heroes are preserved at Akal Takhat. In 1984 during Operation Blue Star Akal Takhat was badly damaged by the Indian Army.
2. BABA ATAL
A nine-storeyed tower, built in memory of Atal Rai (D. 1628), a son of Hargobind, is called Baba Atal. Atal Rai died at nine. He was called ‘Baba’ (an old man) head over young shoulders. The tower was built between 1778 and 1784. It is the only of its kind in the city with 108 ft. height.
3. GURU KA LANGAR
A Sikh temple without a Community Kitchen is inconceivable. Cooked food is serviced in the kitchen of the Harmandir Sahib 24 hours to all visitors irrespective of religion, caste, creed and nationality. The expenses are met out of the Temple funds. Approximately 40,000 visitors share the meals everyday presently.
4. SRI GURU RAM DAS NIWAS
The Niwas is a free hostel for the pilgrims maintained by the Temple authorities. It has been built by the Gurdwara Committee. It has 228 rooms and 18 big halls. Unlike the ordinary ‗Daramsalas‘ the Niwas supplies the facilities of free beddings, cots, lights and fans etc. to the lodgers. A lodger is not generally allowed to stay here for more than three days at a time. The doors of the hostels are open to all. The lodgers however must not do anything repugnant to the teachings of Sikhism.
5. GURU NANAK NIWAS
There are 66 Rooms in Guru Nanak Niwas-22 with attached baths and 4-4 without baths, but on each floor there are 10 bath rooms and fen flush latrines so as to make stay comfortable.
6. AKAL REST HOUSE
There is Akal Rest House having 26 rooms with double beds and attached bath rooms are provided on a nominal Rent.
7. GURU HARGOBIND NIWAS
There are 92 double bed rooms with attached bath in addition to four halls. Rooms are available at Rs. 50/- per day.
8. GURU ARJAN DEV NIWAS
An accommodation adjacent to Guru Nanak Niwas with 1 00 rooms coming up.
9. THE SGPC OFFICES
The headquarters of the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee are located in the Teja Singh Samundri Hall near the Harmandir Sahib. The Gurdwara Act 1925, transferred the control of the historical Sikh Shrines in the Punjab to the SGPC. It is a representative body of the Sikhs elected by adult franchise.
Among the other objects of interest around the Harmandir Sahib worth mentioning are:
- Dukh Bhanjni Ber (Jujube Tree)
- Thara Sahib
- Ber Baba Budha Ji
- Gurdwara llachi Ber
- Ath Sath Tirath (Sixty eight holy places condensed into one) &
- Gurdwara Shaheed Bunga Baba Deep Singh.
The Harmandir Sahib possesses a fine collection of jewellery and valuable articles of considerable artistic and historical importance. The following deserve a special mention:
- GOLDEN DOOR PANELS – There are four pairs of
- GOLDEN CANOPY – The canopy studded with precious jewels, is an object of exquisite workmanship and great artisitic value.
- JEWELLED HEAD-BAND- It is a gift from Maharaja Ranjit It was prepared for the marriage of the son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, at the time of marriage. The Maharaja presented it to the Harmandir Sahib.
10. CENTRAL SIKH MUSEUM
Central Sikh Museum has paintings of Sikh Gurus, Saints, Sikh warriors and other prominent Sikh leaders who have in their own way contributed a lot to the enhancement of Sikh Religion.
The City – Amritsar
Amritsar city is one of the major cities of the Sikh nation. Under instructions from Guru Amar Das Sahib, this city was founded by Guru Ram Das Sahib in 1574, on the land bought by him for an amount of rupees 700 from the owners of the village Tung. (Earlier Guru Ram Das Sahib had begun building Santokhsar Sarovar, near erstwhile village of Sultanwind in 1564 {according to one source in 1570}. It could not be completed before 1588). In 1574, Guru Ram Das Sahib built his residence and moved to this place. At that time, it was known as Guru-Da-Chakk. (Later, it came to be known as Chakk Ram Das). Guru Ram Das Sahib began excavation of the Amritsar Sarovar (tank) in 1577. It was ready by 1581. This tank was renovated by Guru Arjun Sahib in 1586. Since then this city is known as Amritsar (after the name of the Sarovar). The foundation of the Darbar Sahib had been laid by Guru Arjan Sahib on January 3, 1588. (Later, it was propagated that the foundation stone of Darbar Sahib was laid by Sain Mian Mir, a Muslim holy man. Sain Mian Mir was very friendly with Guru Sahib but the foundation of Darbar Sahib was laid by Guru Sahib himself). In 1590, Guru Arjan Sahib moved to village Wadali where Guru Hargobind Sahib was born on June 19, 1590. By 1601, the Darbar Sahib was fully ready. In 1603-04, the first volume of Guru Granth Sahib, the Sikh scriptures, was prepared in this city and was installed at Darbar Sahib on August 16, 1604.
It is here that Akal Takht Sahib (Throne of the Almighty) was revealed by Guru Hargobind Sahib in 1609. Two flags representing temporal and spiritual authority (Sikh sovereignty) have been set up in front of Akal Takht Sahib. Here Guru Hargobind Sahib wore two swords of Miri and Piri (temporal and transcendental authority). The building of Akal Takht Sahib was twice demolished by Afghan armies and was very badly damaged by the Indian regime (in June 1984). The Indian government repaired in in September 1984. The Sikhs began demolishing it on January 26, 1986. The present structure has been constructed by five service-groups headed by Baba Thakar Singh of Bhindran-Mehta Jatha.
On April 13, 1634, the Mogul army attacked Guru Hargobind Sahib here. From 1635 to 1698, Amritsar remained in the control of the Mina family (descendants of Pirthi Chand). During this period, on November 23, 1664, Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib visited the town. In April 1698, Bhai Mani Singh was appointed as the caretaker of the shrines of Amritsar.
The Mogul chief of Patti tried to occupy Amritsar several times. One such attempt was made in April 1709. The Sikhs, under the command of Bhai Mani Singh and Bhai Tara Singh of Dall-Wan, repelled this attack. When Baba Banda Singh Bahadur occupied several areas in the Punjab, Bhai Mani Singh chose to leave Amritsar in order to avoid the Mogul attacks. On December 30, 1711, the Mogul emperor, Bahadur Shah, granted Ajit Singh Palit the charge of Amritsar in order to use him against Baba Banda Singh Bahadur. After the death of Bahadur Shah, Ajit Singh Palit returned to Delhi. In 1721, Bhai Mani Singh returned to Amritsar and re-started regular worship. His first act was to solve a dispute between so-called Tat Khalsa and so-called Bandai Khalsa for the right to the management of the shrines at Amritsar.
On March 29, 1733, a major gathering of the Sikhs was held here in front of Akal Takht Sahib. During the same time a Sarbat Khalsa gathering was also held. It discussed the Mogul offer of Nawab-hood. In April 1734, Bhai Mani Singh was arrested and was martyred at Lahore on June 24, 1734.
In 1740, Massa Ranghar, a debauched official, desecrated Darbar Sahib. He was punished by Bhai Sukkha Singh and Bhai Mahtab Singh, on August 11, 1740. In 1757 Afghan army demolished Darbar Sahib and Akal Takht Sahib. Baba Dip Singh led several thousand Sikhs against the Afghan. A major battle was fought on November 11, 1757. Baba Dip Singh and several thousand Sikhs embraced martyrdom. Again, in 1762, the Darbar Sahib complex was demolished by Afghan army. On December 1, 1764, the Afghan army made another attack. 30 Sikhs, led by Jathedar Gurbakhsh Singh, fought against mammoth Afghan army and embraced martyrdom. In 1765, the Sikhs began re-construction of the shrines. The central part was ready by 1776. Around 1830, Ranjit Singh gold-plated some part of the inner section of the Darbar Sahib. (It harmed this Sikh institution as some ignorant people began unjustly calling it Golden Temple).
In 1846, the British established themselves in the Lahore Darbar, with a Resident in the Court; and Amritsar became a place of frequent visits by the British. In order to keep sanctity of the city, H. M. Lawrence, the British Resident, issued an order, dated March 24, 1847, asking the English people to follow the Sikh protocol while visiting the Sikh centres. In 1858, a Municipal Committee was set up here. In 1862, train services between Lahore and Amritsar were started. Khalsa College, the first Sikh college was established here in 1892. [In 1969 Guru Nanak Dev University was established here]. In 1913, the city was electrified. In September 1915, the British declared Amritsar a ―Holy City‖. (This order was undeclaredly annulled after August 15, 1947 by the Indian regime). On April 13, 1919, General Dyer opened fire on the gathering, at Jallianwala Bagh, near Darbar Sahib, killed 379 people and wounded another 1200. The the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (S.G.P.C.) and the Shiromani Akali Dal were established here in 1920.
The famous Sikh shrines at Amritsar include: Five Sarovars (sacred tanks): Amritsar (1586), Santokhsar (1587-88), Ramsar (1602-03), Kaulsar (1627), Bibeksar (1628); and, Gurdwaras: Baba Atal (1770), Shaheed Ganj Baba Dip Singh (1803, partly in 1823), Shaheed Ganj Baba Gurbakhsh Singh, Guru De Mahal (It was the residence of Guru Ram Das Sahib, Guru Arjan Sahib, Guru Hargobind Sahib and Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib. Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib was born here), Darshani Deodi (near Guru Bazaar, associated with the memory of Guru Arjan Sahib), Gurdwara Thara Sahib (on the bank of Amritsar Sarovar; associated with the memory of Guru Ram Das Sahib and Guru Arjan Sahib), Gurdwara Thara Sahib (in memory of the visit of Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib), Damdama Sahib (in memory of the visit of Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib, in 1664), Pippali Sahib (It is associated with memory of Guru Arjan Sahib and Guru Hargobind Sahib), Gurdwara Tahli Sahib (Guru Ram Das Sahib used to rest under a Tahli, i.e. shisham tree. The Tahli tree, believed to be the same still exists), Churasti Atari (associated with memory of Guru Hargobind Sahib), Gurdwara Lohgarh Qila (Earlier it was a fort built by Guru Hargobind Sahib in 1609) etc. Besides, 68 Bungas were constructed in the town from time to time. (See: Bunga). The Central Sikh Museum and the Sikh Reference Library are also established here. The Indian army burnt the Sikh archives, libraries and the records of the offices of the Akali Dal and the S.G.P.C. on June 6-7, 1984.
Amritsar is a big town with a population of about one million. It is a major trade centre. The offices of the Sikh’s representative organizations i.e. Akali Dal, the S.G.P.C., the Sikh Student’s Federation, the Chief Khalsa Diwan have also been set up at Amritsar. The famous Sikh journal Sant Sipahi is published from this city.
